Odalan Ring Pura Kahyangan Sakti, Sidakarya, Buda Kliwon Ugu

One of the last remaining Sanur Style temples, with its sister temple the Pura Dalem — red brick shrines and ornamental Bairawa style gate, white sand courts, statuesque kamboja trees like a small forest of canopy umbrellas. The Barong, Ratu Ayu and Dewa Rangda are in place facing the five petite shrines as thirty lay priests and patih perform the pujawali. Enchanting and intoxicating — the gamelan picks through the heavy coastal night air. Every element of the scene so classical and well groomed, particularly the tiny tots how follow there parents proudly. Putu is pressing me to hit the carpark for babi guling, into the Manusa Yadnya area where teenagers flirt and gambol. After an afternoon at ground zero it seems a universe away. Aum Shanti Shanti Shanti. Aum.

5th Purnama, ‘Odalan’ at Pura Desa, Keliki (12 November 2008)

MW's SMS:

"All of Bali's volcanoes were out in full majesty as we drove through the stunning rice fields north of Ubud/Bangkiang Sidem to the rural village high on the lower slopes of mount Batur. As we surveyed the kaleidoscopic offerings lining the handsome pavilions, meru and shrines the sound of an arriving barong procession filtered through the courtyard. Black umbrella tops soon swept passed above the temple walls; Barong and teenage bearers turned into the jaba tengah court as a mat was hastily thrown down and a grater produced to grate coconut as part of the segan agung/mendak welcoming ceremony. A gorgeous gong gede struck up, the last rays of the sun illuminated the Tiger Barong in its fancy shrine, strong young preteens strode around with the confidence of army generals........it was impossibly beautiful and my guest (Eric Van Bruggen) and I misted up!"

MW on the Road: Solo and Bali

7 - 8 November, 2008

(7/11) At Panembahan Hardjonagoro's grave
(he designed his funerary umbrella 20 years ago)



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(8/11) Roemahkoe, Solo: My favorite home stay

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(8/11) On the way to Candi Ceto







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(8/11) Candi Ceto

MW's SMS from Candi Ceto (November 8, 2008):

How beautiful is this high valley in the hour of sharp morning light before the mists descend. How magic is the recently "recharged" temple Kudus Agung (see story in SIP September 2007) and how extraordinary the statues and plazascapes still. A kondlu juru kunci took me to the top of the many terraces explaining how both Gus Dur, Akbar Tanjung and the Soeharto children are still regulars--the former spending the jum'at legi night in the meditation hut (gedong) at the top terrace. "Kembali ke Tanah Jawa," explained my guide. The 'odalan' is on an during Medangsia (there is a wayang kulit held in the temple). The Balinese hold an odalan here on Hari Raya Saraswati .

Candi Ceto Carpark attendant (All the villagers are Hindu Javanese)

My Driver, Yun

Meru on the hillside above the Candi Seto temple


Statue of Brawijaya Pamungkas, the last king of Majapahit Kingdom
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(8/11) Lunch in Solo at Warung Letokan



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(8/11) On the way to Jogja Airport

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(8/11) Later the same day in Bali,
at the Neka Gallery for Maya's water colour show



Maya's new boyfriend and his mother


MAYA = HOT


PKI??
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(8/11) In Ubud, at Rio Helmi's "Kerala" Show



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(8/11) Pura Dalem Tanjung, Kepaon, 10 pm:

MW's SMS:

The most moving sight of these past two heart-wrenching and heart-warming days was the vision tonight of the temple gamelan (average age: nine) playing beautifully to wake up a drenched temple court for the evenings kedatengan trance ritual. One six-year old cymbal crasher was conducting the sub juniors with a verve to equal yo yo ma! Oh how wonderfully the Balinese fold the new guard into ancient ceremonies.